Next couple of days
I walked into Olonzac again on Tuesday morning and Sharon came in to pick me up. In the end, we spent most of the morning down there because it was market day. It was huge! The town isn't all that big but it is very busy and just about all of the streets were taken up with bustling stalls selling all manner of things to eat, wear or drink.
Later, we drove out to Narbonne during the afternoon. Although it was overcast and stormy on the way back, it was hot hot hot on the way there. Traffic was light though until we reached town and even then it wasn't too bad – but the beaches are literally miles away from the town. We had a look, they look ok – flat, clean sands with easy parking but .. we won't bother again. There was lots of flashy lightening on the way home and it poured down overnight, but today it's even hotter (the car showed 100oF at one stage). Chicken cous cous for tea!
We spent today driving along to Carcasonne, which is well worth several visits and then down the Aude Valley as far as Esperanza, before driving back over the mountains. This is the area Kate Mosse talk about in her two books Sepulchre (see earlier in the holiday) and Labyrinth. We had a picnic at a tiny town just south of Limoux, sat on a shady river bank. Roast Chicken, Sliced ham, boiled eggs, Camembert and olives with bread and beer. Delightful!
Now I like the French and despite the following drivel, I do consider myself to be a Francophile – but I have to ask: who teaches them to drive? They do not seem to be happy unless they are cuddled up close to your bumper (any closer and they'd need a condom) – no matter what the speed, no matter how many other cars are on the road, no matter what chance they have of overtaking anytime this millennium, there they are stuck on your bumper! It really scares me, especially when they take umbrage at you braking (just to avoid getting quite as close to the car I'm following) – umbrage takes the form of immediate overtaking (regardless of oncoming traffic) accompanied with Gallic gestures though the passenger window (remember they have to lean over to do this!), or in overtaking and then braking hard with said Gallic gestures in their driving mirror! Is it me? Am I a bad driver? – I think not.
What about the 'secret squirrel' game they play on roundabouts and most road junctions? Most French cars do not seem to have the wiring connected to their indicators – or at least 90% of them don't get used. It is total guess work. AND – park on the exit from a roundabout and chat with your mates why don't you? Oh – ok then!
We badly needed air conditioning today. It was big time hot. But we're back now and about to have pasta with pesto for tea and a walk down to the bar for Pastis.
August 5th and 6th Ends.

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